Anycubic Kossel Replacement Parts
After seeing many posts on Facebook suport groups asking for replacement parts, I decided to write down my recommendations.
Most of the reccomended parts are from Triangle lab which sells top quality products and are tested by thousands of people.
Spring steel PEI flexplate
This is a better alternative to Ultrabase. Even 100k$ Stratasys 3D printers use a PEI sheet.The best thing is that PETG or other materials which stick to he bed really well can be easily removed with bending the flex plate. Bottom surface of printed parts remains almost smooth.
The most common upgrade used to be Ultrabase. This upgrade works very well, the best thing about it is that after a few minutes after the printing session finishes, printed parts just pop off the surface, so there is no need to use a spatula. It is a borosilicate glass with a special inorganic coating with a hardness of 8 Mohs. Anycubic says, that it has a tolerance of +-0.2 mm, normally +- 0.1 mm.
Read this guide with fan comparison. I have been tired of the noise. After hundrends of printing hours Kossel became very noisy a I couldn’t sleep at the same room so I have choosed new fans with sufficient air flow [CFM] and low noise [dB] and started working on this article.
High precision nozzle
I highly recommend using quality nozzles such as these. Original nozzle is 0.4 mm, you can buy larger inner diameter nozzle for faster printing. Also original V5 J-Head uses standard V6 nozzles.
High precision nozzle set
If you want to try different nozzle diameters, you can also buy this handy set.
V5 J-Head silicone sock
One of the best and cheapest upgrades. This problem helps with thermal runaway problems and isolates hot ends from cold air running from cooling fan. Also this exact sock type allow you to just pop it on the hot end without removing heating element and thermistor.
V5 J-Head silicone sock
This is a complete replacement. It is an option too, but the parts are not so good as those from TriangleLab
Bowden tube, PTFE tube
This is a very important replacement part. Due to filament movement and friction, bowden tube wears and it’s inner diameter gets bigger and bigger over time. This causes extrusion problems, stringing and another problems. Filaments with abrasive parts, such as wooden, marble, glitters are the worst for this.
Thermistor – temperature sensor, stock type
Original hot end uses standard glass thermistor inside a brass tube. This causes many problems with thermal runaway, because there is no thermal paste inside and thermistor often moves and falls out from the hot end.
Thermistor – temperature sensor, upgrade
This thermistor is an upgrade over the stock one. You will get rid of problems such as thermistor falling out and you will get much better thermal conductivity between hot end end thermistor
Heating element, heater
Original heating element without cable holder often breaks, it is caused by a play and movement between cables and heating element. This replacement is also 40W, please choose 12V if you do not have 24V modification.
Timing belts GT2
Old belts can cause a lot of problems such as ghosting, because low quality or old belts can stretch. Kossel uses standard 6mm GT2 belts. Measure the lenght you need, usually 5-6m for all three towers.
Bed thermal insulation
If you want better thermal insulation between bed and electronics, you can buy these awesome high temperature cotton pads.
I have an Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus that I got 2nd hand. It’s working fine, but I need to get additional heat blocks and heat breaks for it. I’m using the original E3D V5 hot end. I don’t see much parts around for that hot end, especially on Amazon, but a few on Aliexpress. Where are you getting your parts these days for that printer? Also, do you happen to know where I could get another fan cage for it?
Hi, most of the parts can be found on AliExpress.
However I have not seen the cage anywhere, I would recommend this upgrade:
i want add two other nice replacement/mod parts.
I had a weird mechanical noise on long (and fast) travel moves. (100 mm/s; 3000 accelaration)
i changed the ball bearings in the linear rails and the printer ran much smoother – but the “travel”noise was still there. Took those: “3/32 Inch Ball Bearing 440C Stainless Steel G25 Precision Balls Pack of 200 ” (search it on Amazon).
I changed the motor connectors too. I build in some silencers: “Zacro NEMA 17 Steel and Rubber Stepper Silencer” (can be found on Amazon). The noise was completly gone -and- i was able to get even more speed and accelaration (150 mm/s).
Give it a try if you have a lot of time or the need of disassembling the complete printer. 😉
Keep up your great work!
Thank you for new informations!