Step 1: Order new upgrade parts
We have chosen 6×4 mm rods as a compromise between the stiffness and weight.
If you want to go lower with the weight, although the difference will be small, you can use 5×3 mm rods and M3/3 joints.
These lightweight joints help with ghosting and corner overshots. Please buy 2 packs - 2x 6 pcs. These joints have a 7 mm diameter hole for rods so there will be a 0.5 mm space for epoxy glue. You can get rid of the original brass spacers with these joints.
Loctite 3450 epoxy glue
Buy this or a similar epoxy glue in your country.
Step 2: Print this rod tool
Download these stl files for a rod tool (rod holder). It really helps with gluing the joints to the rods. This model was created by Robert Schmiedt, so you can thank him for his design.
Step 3: Prepare all parts.
As you can see in this pictures, the rods are very well packed.
Prepare all parts and start with assembly.
I highly recommend using some degreaser on the set screws and inside of the rods, the glue will work better.
These joints with 240 mm carbon rods will be a little bit longer, so you have two options:
1) Loose some of the printable height and modify rod lenght in your firmware.
2) Cut the rods about 10 mm so the distance between the axis remains the same
Step 4: Glue it together
Please note that the pictures and description will be without using the rod tool, I did not have any working printer at the moment.
Insert the set screw into the joint, tighten it and leave at least 10 mm of the set screw outside.
Apply epoxy glue on the screws and into the rods.
Insert the screw into the rod and let the glue work.
Step 7: Modify your rod lenght if you need to
If you need to modify your rod lenght, follow one of these guides:
Why should I upgrade stock firmware? Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus Firmware Marlin 2.0 offers better performance and more options over the stock Anycubic Kossel FW.Delta calibration works much better then stock bed calibration.You can easily make changes in FW.Configuration files have been created for original Trigorilla board and original drivers which come with the printer.
This article will guide you through Anycubic Kossel Klipper configuration. Follow the steps and create your own configuration.Klipper uses printer.cfg configuration file which is something similar to Marlin configuration and configuration_adv files.This file can be easily modified with text editors, such as Pspad, or NotePad and uploaded to Raspberry via SFTP in Total Commander. This
Step 8: Recalibrate the printer
I highly recommend recalibrating printer with delta calibration.
Correct Kossel calibration is crucial for succesful 3D printing.Printed parts tend to bend or even do not stick to the build plate without it. More about this Marlin G33 command:https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G033.html 1. Check if your FW uses calibration A common mistake of those who have modified their Marlin configuration files is not defining this part: If
After flashing Klipper, it is necessary to perform a delta calibration.Delta calibration will probe multiple points on bed and calculate rod length, tower angle, z height and other delta variables. 1. Attach and connect Z probe 2. Open OctoPrint Open OctoPrint and connect to printer. 3. Delta calibration Open Terminal and send home command:G28Send this
After a succesful delta calibration it is time to do an enhanced delta calibration.This calibration solves problems with XY dimension problems such as a 19 mm Y side instead of 20 mm. More about Klipper delta calibration 1. Download and print calibration model I have used the same file as in Klipper Delta Calibration guide and added