V6 Aerospace heat break
This is the newest and most hi-tech heat break from Mellow. It combines one of the best affordable materials - copper for it's high thermal conductivity and aerospace grade ceramics for thermal insulation between the heat block and heatsink.
1. Is it a good choice for my 3D printer?
Direct drive extruder:
Suitable for all standard filaments.
Bowden extruder:
Suitable for all standard filaments.
If you want to get the best heat brek on the market, get this one.
There is simply nothing better right now.
2. What is it made of?
This V6 heat break consists of 3 parts:
Upper part made of copper to make the cooling effective as possible.
Middle part made of aerospace ceramics for the best thermal insulation between the upper and lower part.
Lower part made of copper for the best heat transfer over the heat block.
Let's compare thermal conductivity:
Copper + aerospace material heat break:
Copper: 380 W/m*K
Ceramics (ZnO2): 2-5 W/m*K (2 W/m*K– ZnO2)
Other heat break types:
Stainless steel: 16-24 W/m*K
Titanium alloy: 5-7 W/m*K
3. Cross-section
This is how a cross-section of a V6 hot end with a copper-aerospace material heatbreak looks like (without the heatsink).
4. Dimensions
The size of the heatbreak is almost the same as the size of the E3D V6 heatbreak.
5. Weight
As you can see in the comparison below, the weight is:
Commer + aerospace material heat break: 3.05 g
Standard all metal heat break: 3.32 g
Titanium heat break: 1.85 g
Hi Lukas. I wanted to reach out to you to ask you a few questions. I hope you are still actively following this site. The site you created is very useful and much appreciated. I have different models of 3D printers and I like to upgrade these printers more than printing. I recently bought a broken Anycubic Delta Kossel printer for a very cheap price. While repairing my printer, your site was very useful for me in the software parts. First of all, thank you for this. My printer prints without any problems, but there is only one problem, despite doing all the calibrations and checking it with a spirit level many times, after the nozzle touches the table, it starts to move away from the build plate as it moves in the -x direction and starts to rub against the build plate as it moves in the +x direction. When I check this error, I do not encounter any problems when I correct the table with intervention and print, in other words, the error I get does not repeat systematically along the z axis. I wanted to reach out to you because I thought you might have information about this. And I also want to add some upgrades to the printer. Like moving the spool holder up and shortening the bowden tube distance and making an enclosure. Maybe you have some ideas in mind after doing some research on upgrading your own printer. If so, I’d love to hear your ideas.