Anycubic Kossel Delta Calibration (Marlin FW)

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Correct Kossel calibration is crucial for succesful 3D printing.
Printed parts tend to bend or even do not stick to the build plate without it.

More about this Marlin G33 command:
https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G033.html


1. Check if your FW uses calibration

A common mistake of those who have modified their Marlin configuration files is not defining this part:

If you use my Marlin, it has this feature defined, so there is no problem.

But if you are not sure, there is also another solution:
Placing M420 S1 after G28 in start G code in your slicer


2. Autoleveling using Z probe

2.1.1 Prepare your Z probe

Attach Z probe and make sure the connector is plugged in correctly

2.1.2. Go to the menu and navigate to Configuration, click

2.1.3. Navigate to Delta Calibration, click

2.1.4. Click on Auto Calibration

2.1.5. Confirm leveling after autohome – click with the button

2.1.6. Make a tea and wait a few minutes

2.1.7. Stow Z Probe after leveling and confirm with a click

2.1.8. Store settings, better do it a few times just to be sure


2.2. Z height calibration

In my Marlin 2.0 configuration Z probe height is set to 15.0 mm.
Each Kossel setup has a slightly different distance between the tip of the nozzle and the probe.
Without these steps the calibration would be useless.

2.2.1. Go to Menu – Auto Home

2.2.2. Go to Motion

2.2.3. Go to Move Axis

2.2.4. Set Soft Endstops to Off

You have to send it to off so you can move your extruder head to negative distance.

2.2.5. Put a piece of under under the nozzle

2.2.6. Go to Move Z

2.2.7. Move the nozzle until it touches the paper

The safest way is:
1) Use Move Z 10 mm – move it the closest you can to 002.0 mm, not less!
2) Use Move Z 1 mm – move it to something like 002.0 mm, not less!
3) Use Move Z 0.1 mm – slowly move z position step by step until the nozzle touches the paper and there is a friction between the nozzle, paper and bed.
4) Write down the number you see on LCD, you will use need it later


2.3. Height adjusting

2.3.1. Check the actual height

Navigate to: Menu -> Configuration -> Delta settings -> Height
You can see that the actual height after autoleveling is 275.15 mm

2.3.2. Calculate the new height

Height after autoleveling has been set to 275.19 mm and we have measured (step 2.2.7.) that Z offset is -1.8 mm which means that we have to add 1.8 mm to the height: 275.19 + 1.8 = 276.99 mm

2.3.3. Set the new height

Start turning the knob until you see the calculated height, confirm by click

2.3.4. Store settings

Click on Store Settings a few times

2.3.5. Test the configuration

1) Turn off the printer and wait 10 seconds
2) Turn on the printer
3) Navigate to Menu – click on Autohome
4) Perform the steps from 2.2.7. with a paper under the nozzle
5) If you need to adjust the height, go again through the 2.3. steps

2.3.6. Print something to test your settings

The best way to make sure you have measured and calibrated the height correctly is to print something.
You can choose some standard testing cubes, ripple test or a delta calibration pattern which covers almost the entire printable bed area.
If you still have any bed leveling issues, perform the leveling again.


2.4. Change Z probe offset

You do not have to do do this, but it will be much easier to calibrate the printer next time – you can skip all 2.3. steps

2.4.1. Calculate new offset

Go to Menu -> Configuration – Probe Z Offs and check the current offset
In previous step we have measured that the height difference is – 1.8 mm
The new offset will be – 15.00 + (-1.8 mm) = – 16.8 mm

2.4.2. Change the Offset

Change offset to the calculated new one, of example – 16.8 mm and confirm

2.4.3. Store settings

You must store setting as always.


2.5. Print something

I fell in love with this Ripple test.
It works better then the standard calibration cube and you can spot your printer’s issues more clearly.

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39 Comments

  1. Hi, thank you for your great work!
    However there is one thing concerning me, when I tried using auto leveling, instead of going down, the print head started moving upwards. Is it just me or did you have a similar problem?

  2. When I completed step 2.2.7 I did not have a negative number. I ended up with +001.0 as my Z offset. How do I determine step 2.3.2 using a positive number?

  3. Great site and tutorials!!!

    In 2.2.7:
    1) Use Move Z 10 mm – move it the closest you can to 002.0 mm, not less!

    I think you meant “020.0mm, not less”

  4. Hi, thank you for all of your tutorials!
    I got my KLP working with the trigorilla thanks to you!
    Unfortenately I upgraded to a SKR Board and struggle since. I use G33 (so additional parameters) to Auto Calibrate and then follow this guide. But when I try to start a print with M420 S1 in the start-gcode my printer halts with “could not activate leveling”.
    So… do I have to do a single G29 after the G33?

      1. Thanks for your reply!
        Yes, in this case the leveling is off. E.g. in the middle the heigth is just right and on the z-Tower the nozzle is way to far from the bed = /
        I tried a G29 now (+M420 S1 in Startcode) and it seems okay, although not perfect. I was on 2.0.5.2 and now switched to the bugfix branch which maybe also made a small improvement.
        Do you use only G33 and no M420?

  5. HI first awesome work! I just purchased my first Delta style printer, a used kossel pulley, but after following your steps it still isn’t printing right. I can print a calibration cube perfect, but when I try and print a larger object, from one side of the print bed to the other, it goes from too close to just right, how do I correct this?? Would a glass bed fix it? should I use the bed leveling option? Thank you!!!!

      1. I’ve reported it as a BUG because it looks really strange. I’ve tried today to configure Klipper with the exactly same settings like Marlin 2.0.5.3 and the calibration works there. There are of course more drawbacks especially because I am not familiar with Clipper 🙂

  6. Hi Lukas!

    How many iterations should I expect the calibration to do? I’m on 5 and it’s not stopping, wondering what I’m doing wrong… Thanks!

  7. hello Luke, thanks for the excellent calibration guide. now my Kossel finally prints well, some small adjustments and it will be perfect.
    Long life and prosperity

  8. Lukas – I will add my voice to those who have expressed appreciation for this guide. It is thoughtfully prepared and made navigating through my Kossel calibration an easy one. You have clearly laid out the steps, and like others, I owe the success of printing with this machine to you! Thanks!!

  9. Hi Lukas, my plus that came from alza is behaving weirdly, I have been following your instructions and have flashed the marlin that is to be downloaded from your web, but my printer is constantly hitting the lefthand side with the printerhead even before calibration and the Z seems to not work properly. Do you have any advice?

  10. Hi, great tutorial👍. One question, on 2.3.2 the -1.8 is negative so you add your two numbers together. What if it was +1.8 positive, do you still add the two numbers together?? Thanks for the time spent helping others💖

    1. I would also like to know about adding the numbers together. I ended up with a +1.6
      Do I subtract it?
      Please help

  11. Thank you so much I’ve bin struggling for over a week nothing was printing to size my bed was reading high low swear it thought it was playing black jack anyway thanks.

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