I have owned this awesome Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus aka KLP 3D printer since 2017.
Story of this page begins at the time I have started looking for upgrades on the internet and became flustrated. It was very difficult to find any page containing tutorials or explanations about particular upgrade and searching for an answer in a FB groups is a madness.
My goal is to present you some of the best upgrades and guides how to install them.
For an additional help, visit the link at the bottom of this page which will direct you to Facebook groups dedicated to this printer.
Firmware guides and upgrades
Anycubic Kossel Marlin guide
Marlin informations So what is that Marlin? Marlin is an open source printer firmware developed by a 3D printer enthusiastic community. What firmware does my printer use? Anycubic Kossel comes with Marlin FW from factory.Upgrading it to a newer and better version is a good and a costless upgrade. Where can I find more information? That is easy, visit official
Anycubic Kossel Klipper guide
Why should I do it? Is it worth it? You can finally print with higher speeds without any FW limitation. I personally print with PLA and 120-140mm/s even with original V5 hot end. For anyone wondering why should they buy a Raspberry and use a Klipper FW instead of SKR and Marlin, here is why: Controlling printer via web inferface
Anycubic Kossel Octoprint installation
Requirements You will need to buy a Raspberry and get a USB cable to make it work.I recommend buying this set, because it has all you need. ALIEXPRESS CLICK HERE Or you can order just a board and get the ramaining parts elsewhere. ALIEXPRESS CLICK HERE ALIEXPRESS CLICK HERE 1. Download Octoprint First step is installing OctoPi which is a
Hardware upgrades
Anycubic Kossel E3D V6 Upgrade
I have prepared this article for anyone willing to spend some time upgrading their Anycubic Kossel printer to E3D V6 hotend from original V5 J-Head.Main reason for this upgrade was to use all metal heat break for printing Nylon, ASA and achieve better printing results. Choosing the right E3D V6 version I have chosen this awesome Trianglelab E3D V6 kit
Anycubic Kossel fans disassembly
Tired of loudy fans on your printer, do you want a better cooling?Continue reading… Power supply fan Charasteristics:Voltage: 18VCurrent: 0.12A Kossel PSU fan disassembly 1) Loose two screws holding the power supply on Kossel.2) Loose two screws holding black plastic part of PSU3) Remove the plastic part by pulling it out4) Loose screws under that were covered by the plastic
Anycubic Kossel extruder mount
Introduction The goal was to create an adjustible extruder mount Original mount tends to break brittle filaments Extruder mount in the pictures is var4, I recommend printing newer version – var5 version. ExtruderHolder-var5: Angle annotation 40 min print time 9 g of PLA filament you will need longer M4 bolt (plus 4 – 6mm), M4 nut ExtruderHolder-var4 ExtruderHolder-var4 35 min
Anycubic Kossel fan upgrade
Why should I do that? I have been tired of the noise. After hundrends of printing hours Kossel became very noisy a I couldn’t sleep at the same room so I have choosed new fans with sufficient air flow [CFM] and low noise [dB] and started working on this article. Power supply fan It was difficult to find a good
Anycubic Kossel Corner Reinforcements
Stock Anycubic Kossel frame tends to bend during acceleration and deceleration.These handy corner reinforcements help a lot and significaly improve printing quality. 1. Buy T nuts and screws If you want to use all 6 possible corner reinforcements with the biggest amount of fixing points, you will need at least 60 T nuts and 60 M4 screws.So order them in
Anycubic Kossel Raspberry camera IR mount
1. Introduction I could’t find any decent Kossel Raspberry camera mount, so I have designed this one.It can be printed easily without any bridges or supports.All you need to do is print stl files and buy a few M3 screws and M3 nuts. 2. Download stl models Version 1 – 4DOFDesigned for a simple use.Click on the picture to download
Anycubic Kossel Bed Upgrade
Original heated bed with a sticker Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus comes with a 240 mm round heated bed and a 230 mm printable area. Why only 230 mm?For safety and because the bed is usually not straight at the edges. I have decided to add only Ultrabase nad PEI Flexplate upgrades in this guide, because I do not like using
Anycubic Kossel Replacement Parts
After seeing many posts on Facebook suport groups asking for replacement parts, I decided to write down my recommendations. Most of the reccomended parts are from Triangle lab which sells top quality products and are tested by thousands of people. Spring steel PEI flexplate This is a better alternative to Ultrabase. Even 100k$ Stratasys 3D printers use a PEI sheet.The
Anycubic Kossel Hot End Silicone Sock
Hot end silicone sock is on of the best and cheapest upgrades you can do to your 3D printer.This article applies to all 3D printers with a V5 J-Head, such as Kossel Pulley, Kossel Linear Plus, i3 Mega and so on… As you can see in the picture below, the cooling fan affects nozzle (hot end) temperature. On the left
Anycubic Kossel Klipper Trigorilla TMC Driver UART Upgrade
Upgrading your stock A4988 drivers to TMC2208 will bring you comfort and the only thing you will hear will be the fans. You do not need to buy SKR, you can use original Trigorilla board with TMC drivers and UART mode You can use TMC2208 in a standalone mode (DIY in this article), but I do not recommend it. It
Anycubic Kossel SKR 1.3 upgrade
Kossel SKR 1.3 TMC UART is one of the best upgrades you can do.Before ordering anything decide if you want to change your board and use Marlin or you want to try Klipper and keep the original Trigorilla board. SKR provides much higher computing power which is so needed for fast printing with our delta printers. It also uses very
Anycubic Z probe accuracy
Anycubic Z probe accuracy test. I could not find any informations about accuracy of this original probe which was being sold with Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus so I used Klipper and PROBE_ACCURACY to measure it. WHERE TO BUY 1. Accuracy testing with multiple attaching and removing This routine was tested because we need to attach the probe before every bed
Anycubic Kossel E3D V6 Upgrade
This is the best E3D V6 upgrade for Anycubic Kossel you can find on the internet.The printed effector is much lighter than the original one which helps with ghosting and other problems. This effector also uses original leveling probe, so auto leveling will still work.5015 fan with dual cooling duct solves problems with cooling and V6 hot end is capable
Anycubic Kossel Volcano Upgrade
This is a complete guide for an Anycubic Kossel Volcano Upgrade.You can print this upgraded effector with ABS/ASA and install new parts in about 1-2 hours.Support Robert Schmiedt who designed this awesome effector. This effector uses original leveling probe, so auto leveling will still work.5015 fan with dual cooling duct solves problems with cooling and volcano hot end is capable
Anycubic Kossel BMG Upgrade
This Anycubic Kossel BMG Upgrade guide will help you to install BMG extruder. This is a dual extruder that really helps with underextrusion problems. It comes with a smaller motor (optional), because it is geared 3:1 instead of 1:1. Step 1: Order a BMG Dual Driver Extruder If you want to save up a few bucks, order a BMG without
Anycubic Kossel Rods Upgrade
If you really want to get rid of the ghosting, new lighter effector and lighter, more precise rods are the way to go. Original rod with joints weights about 21 grams. This upgrade rod weights only 9 grams even with the joints. Step 1: Order new upgrade parts We have chosen 6×4 mm rods as a compromise between the stiffness
Calibration guides
Retraction Calibration
What is retraction? Retraction is an extruder movement when the filament is pulled out of the nozzle and pushed back when needed. Retraction works simply – when the nozzle moves between printing areas, extruder takes the filament out of the nozzle and pushes it back when the nozzle is in the next printing area. You can tune retraction distance, speed,
Cura Combing Mode
What is a combing mode? Combing is a Cura’s feature that recalculates nozzle travel to eliminate any surface artifacts such as blobbing. The difference between combing off and combing all is clearly visible in the picture below. 1. Combing Mode OFF This mode completely disables Cura combing feature. Nozzle travels through the empty areas almost every layer.This leads to too
Anycubic Kossel Klipper Pressure Advance
Klipper pressure advance is a feature that helps with corner overshots.It uses extra extruder retractions while moving to eliminate problems with over extruding at corners. Let me say thank you to all Klipper developers for this awesome feature and great faq pages on their GIT. Those graphs below were downloaded from official Klipper GIT. How does it work? Extruder retraction
Anycubic Z probe accuracy
Anycubic Z probe accuracy test. I could not find any informations about accuracy of this original probe which was being sold with Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus so I used Klipper and PROBE_ACCURACY to measure it. WHERE TO BUY 1. Accuracy testing with multiple attaching and removing This routine was tested because we need to attach the probe before every bed
Anycubic Kossel Klipper Enhanced Delta Calibration
After a succesful delta calibration it is time to do an enhanced delta calibration.This calibration solves problems with XY dimension problems such as a 19 mm Y side instead of 20 mm. More about Klipper delta calibration 1. Download and print calibration model I have used the same file as in Klipper Delta Calibration guide and added excel table for calculating average
Anycubic Kossel Klipper delta calibration
After flashing Klipper, it is necessary to perform a delta calibration.Delta calibration will probe multiple points on bed and calculate rod length, tower angle, z height and other delta variables. 1. Attach and connect Z probe 2. Open OctoPrint Open OctoPrint and connect to printer. 3. Delta calibration Open Terminal and send home command:G28Send this command after the printer homes:DELTA_CALIBRATE
Anycubic Kossel Klipper extruder PID calibration
1. Check extruder name First start with opening your printer.cfg configuration file and checking etruder name. It is usually extruder, because most of the people use only one extruder, so there is no reason to change it. 2. Move effector close to the bed You normally do not print in the air. Move printing head to the bed to make
Anycubic Kossel Marlin flow calibration
After extruder calibration you should calibrate material flow.It is possible that without flow calibration you printer will be over extruding and your print quality will be bad.You can easily modify it in your slicer, such as Cura. 1. Download cube stl file Click on the picture and download a 25*25*25 mm cube. 2. Slice it with a vase mode on
Anycubic Kossel Marlin extruder calibration
1. Preparation 1.1. Heat up the nozzle Start by heating up the nozzle to your printing temperature PLA 190°C, PETG 230°C, ABS/ASA 250°C 1.2. Retract filament Push the extruder calipers and retract filament from bowden with the other hand 1.3. Bowden removal Press the bowden coupler and remove the bowden 1.5. Insert filament Cut the end of filament with pliers
Anycubic Kossel PID calibration
1. What is it good for? PID regulation is necessary for consistent 3D printing.Bad PID values can cause thermal runaway problems or at least inconstintent flow.If you have upgraded extruder fan, extruder head, heater or hot end, you defininitely should perform PID calibration. This guide will onstruct you how to perform a extuder PID calibration. 2. Connect printer to computer
Facebook groups:
Anycubic Kossel 3D Printers
Anycubic Kossel 3D – SKR Upgrade
Anycubic Kossel upgrades World Wide
Anycubic International – 3D Printers Support Group
Donate
I hope that this webpage and guides have helped you with your 3D printer and saved your precious time.
You can support this page by a donation:
Hi Lukas!
I want to upgrade my old Anycubic Kossel pulley to a linear one! Can u please tell me witch linear rail guide and carriage I need to use, and how mm long need to by???
TBH I by it from second hand this one, and its faulty, but with your tutorials I make a fully working one! 🙂
So Thanks for this kind of tutorials for you! 😉
Hi. Do you have a tutorial about how to settings for power loss recovery? I test it by myself but still not working.
Thanks a lot.
Hi, I do not.
I would go for an UPS unit…
I cannot thank you enough for the time and energy you have put into this information. I am new to the 3D printing world and was given an Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus. Without the information you have provided I would be completely lost. I would like to ask how you currently have your Kossel set up.
1. Are you running an SKR 1.3 with Klipper or do you still use Marlin?
2. Do use the factory v5 hot end or would you recommend going to the v6 as shown in your guides?
Hi, thank you for your feedback and your donationt.
I am still running original Trigorilla board + 4x TMC drivers and a Klipper FW.
Original V5 works for 80-100mm/s depending on acceleration and jerk settings.
We are working on a volcano and V6 upgrade (complete effector print with ABS/ASA) and a better cooling right now.